Spark Plug change

[mrazntre]

Okay, so i'm going to change my spark plugs today, but i've been lazy cuz i'm just a lazy ass mo fo, and I'm on YW.

This is a write up on how I change my spark plugs.

You want to begin this procedure when the motor is either cold or relatively cold, don't do a freeway blast for 30minutes, and then expect to change your plugs, I would say give it about 45min to an hour to cool your motor down.

Tools you will need:
1) Socket wrench driver
1A) you might need an extension bar depending on how deep your plugs are. V6 motors are a bit more complicated due to clearance issues, in which case you'll prolly need an assorted extension bar set and a wobbler.
2) Spark plug socket (usually comes with a socket wrench set)
(there are two types of spark plugs, i believe they are the 3/8's and 5/8's? don't quote me on that) - - rule of thumb: whichever spark plug socket properly fits your spark plug, it's the correct one.
3) spark plug gapper
4) spark plug gap puller
(note: 3 and 4 can be the same tool depending on which one you buy)
5) anti-seize lubricant

Now let's begin.

although most spark plugs come pre-gapped nowadays, it's always good to double check. the guy at the auto store will ususually write down the proper gap on the spark plug box (if not, ask him before you leave the store). using your spark plug gap puller, slide the tool in between the electrode of the sparkplug and turn the tool until it stops, check the number on the tool and you will see the amount of gap that the spark plug is currently set. if the number does not agree with that of the recommended gap, use your gap puller and adjust the hooked part of the spark plug (forgot the name of this part of the spark plug) and set it to the recommended gap. After properly gapping and adjusting your new spark plugs, you can begin to...

Pull off your spark plug wires from the base of the boot, don't tug at the wire (REMEMBER THE ORDER!!! factory wires will usually be cut to length and have the cylinder numbers written on the wires--this is PRETTY important because it dictates firing order). If you have a 4 cylinder car, you'll have 4 spark plugs, a 5 cylinder car, 5 spark plugs and so forth. After removing the wires, you can begin to take the spark plugs out. Make sure the socket is correctly fitted into the spark plug and turn counterclockwise (lefty lucy, righty tighty -- remember that). Spark plug should come out with relative ease after breaking initial torque (do not let anything fall into the spark plug hole since that leads directly into the combustion chamber).

Use the anti-seize lubricant to lightly cover the threaded portion of the spark plugs (this will allow you yo take off the spark plugs easier the next time around, as the name implies, it will resist seizure of the spark plug to the head). Screw the spark plugs back in by hand until it stops. Then use your socket wrench to gently turn the spark plug until it stops again. torque it down a quarter turn and continue the procedure with the rest of the remaining plugs.

replace the wires, you should hear a light click when the boot meets the plug head.

Clean up, close the hood and you're good to go.

Now you can drive again. If your plugs are seriously worn, you will notice improved response and will regain your mileage.

As always, this is informational only and if you fuck up ( i dunno how you would), it ain't my fault. Good luck.

[wylin]

maybe sy u should discuss the difference between copper/ platinum, and iriduim plugs

also the differences w/ heat ranges.

[deez nuts]

I'd probably mess this up, anyways. ;)





<!--EDIT|Chasiubao_Boy|Sep 23 2002, 02:02 PM-->

[wylin]

its not hard just gotta make sure u gap them correctly!

[mrazntre]

Spark plug differences:

copper/platinum/iridium in all honesty, these all do the same shit. Mfr's say that platinum and iridium conduct better in order to produce a hotter spark, etc but truthfully, there's hardly any difference in my opinion. I have not had experience with iridium plugs, however i do use copper and have used platinum plugs. Platinum is supposed to be for better gas mileage, plus it lasts longer than a traditional copper plug. I use normal copper plugs and change them with about every other oil change mainly because it's inexpensive and easy to do. Might as well keep them fresh right?

When we talk about spark, we're talking about the pulse of electricity that runs through the electrode side of the spark plug. This occurs in the area between the piston and valves (for Overhead cam O.H.C cars) chamber and ignites/burns everything that is inside the combustion chamber -- this should be air from the intake, and fuel injected into the intake manifold, there will be trace amounts of oil also. When you motor gets bad, oil will seep into this chamber and degrade the combustion. Imagine lighting a match in a room filled with air and atomized fuel. now imagine that same room, but now it has a bunch of fire retardant floating around. Boom not so big anymore. yet i digress. Those non-copper plugs are supposed to conduct electricity better, which means a hotter spark which is supposed to mean better combustion. It doesn't always work that way because you have other factors to take into consideration such as the ignition wires, ignition coil, distributor cap/rotor..all of that blocks the electricity's path. Only an aftermarket system can provide a true hot spark that can further optimze the combustion process.

Heat:

For a standard econo-box car, or any other non-modified car for that matter, just use what's recommended. this provides enough spark per mfr. specs and will do just fine.

When you begin to modify your motor, what you want to avoid is detonation. ie. KABLOOEY! detonation occurs when you lean out, or when your fuel to air ratio is crapped out and you have more air than fuel. if you run like this for a prolonged period of time, you get what you call knock. engine knock. this indicates a lean condition.
A not so good sound to hear is "ping ping ping ping." That's what they call "pinging."

basically running a hotter plug will aid in combating detonation when you run more boost or if you are goin way super high compression via heat dissipation i will come back to this. i'm falling asleep.

from Denso..
What Does It All Mean?

Hot plugs? Cold Plugs? What does it all mean? Definition: The heat range of a spark plug is its ability to dissipate heat from the combustion chamber to the cylinder head. The heat range, or dissipation capability, of a spark plug depends primarily on the length of the insulator nose. The heat from the combustion is transferred from the insulator nose through the center electrode to the plug housing, and from there it goes to the cylinder head.

Hot Plug
A "hot plug" has a long insulator nose which exposes more surface area to the combustion gases. This keeps the plug temperature higher overall which is ideal for stop-start city driving conditions.

Cold Plug
A "cold plug" has a shorter insulator nose, which minimizes the amount of surface area exposed to the combustion gases. Cold plugs are typically used in racing conditions because of its ability to transfer heat out of the cylinder chamber quickly. Most turbo, supercharged and nitrous oxide applications use this type of plug because of the tremendous heat they generate. A colder plug can also minimize the risk of pre-ignition and detonation, however if the plug is to cold there is risk of fouling during extended periods of idling and low-speed operation.

you can find the full detailed explanation here (http://www.densoiridium.com/heatranges.htm)


please edit/add.. i haven't proofread.



<!--EDIT|mrazntre|Sep 27 2002, 02:00 AM-->

[ren28]

I recall reading from the NGK site about them recommending one heat range colder for approx every 70HP gain over stock.

I have used Denso Iridiums two heat ranges colder than stock and went back to one heat range colder since I use water injection.

[wylin]

i also recomend u stick w/ ur manufactuer recomended spark plug change times. 15-30 for copper, 50-100k for platinum, iridium probs same as platinum.

[ren28]

Copper gets eaten in my engine (because of heavy mods and high boost levels). 2K and it starts loosing power. Iridium lasts much longer in my car.

[mrazntre]

FYI: if and when you pulli your plugs, if you check the spark plug thread and feel something like a molasses consistency on the threads.. that's not a good thing. you have oil leaking through to your combustion chamber. either through the valves or pistons..

[ren28]

Originally posted by mrazntre@Oct 6 2002, 07:18 PM
FYI: if and when you pulli your plugs, if you check the spark plug thread and feel something like a molasses consistency on the threads.. that's not a good thing. you have oil leaking through to your combustion chamber. either through the valves or pistons..
I think that is the result of someone putting anti-sieze on the threads.

[mrazntre]

anti-seize will show up retaining its silvery color.

[ren28]

Oh yeah. If you are burning oil, you can probably find out by doing a pre-smog check.

I heard all cars burn some oil with some cars designed to burn a slight amount of oil from the factory.

[mrazntre]

regardless, you should not have oil on your plug threads.

on ALL modern cars you do have oil burning... with your recirculation of crankcase gas, but that is a very small proportion of oil burning.

[ren28]

Originally posted by mrazntre@Oct 7 2002, 12:14 AM
regardless, you should not have oil on your plug threads.

on ALL modern cars you do have oil burning... with your recirculation of crankcase gas, but that is a very small proportion of oil burning.
Oil on threads? I thought you were talking about sludge on it.

[mrazntre]

not sludge.

sofaking gEi

[ren28]

Originally posted by mrazntre@Oct 7 2002, 04:23 AM
not sludge.

sofaking gEi
die now. fanx.

[jizza]

oil or sludge on ur plugs is a bad sign.

the ngk coppers work fine in my car. even on c16 at 20psi it holds up fine. i change plugs everytime i change the oil, and there seems to be no wear or fouling.

[mrazntre]

ren28 is a lying sack of shizzzz..


he drives a civic powered civic with a toyota mr2 body kit.



<!--EDIT|mrazntre|Oct 21 2002, 04:26 AM-->

[ren28]

Originally posted by mrazntre@Oct 21 2002, 04:26 AM
ren28 is a lying sack of shizzzz..


he drives a civic powered civic with a toyota mr2 body kit.
u muzzt die. mudderfuq d0ma

[mrazntre]

hon-dUH muddafuq

[wylin]

suck on Deez DEEEEEZZZZ NUTZ!

[mrazntre]

Originally posted by jizza@Oct 7 2002, 05:06 PM
oil or sludge on ur plugs is a bad sign.

the ngk coppers work fine in my car. even on c16 at 20psi it holds up fine. i change plugs everytime i change the oil, and there seems to be no wear or fouling.
too bad autozone, kragen and pep boys killed ngk off their list... a lot of those spots don't even carry denso anymore. they made me go bosch.

[ren28]

I bought my Denso directly from a large distributor instead of retail. I will try NGK iridium later on.

I find copper does not last in my engine... one oil change interval and they start giving me problems. It could be the lack of tuning is causing combustion temps to get very high, making the plugs wear faster but I do find people replace copper pretty often.

[lethal]

Are those splitfire plugs any good?

[ren28]

Are those splitfire plugs any good?

I don't think those are any good at all. Besides that, if your engine is near stock or has mild bolt-on parts, you should probably stick to the plug that was recommended by your manufacturer. There is little to no gain to be had from aftermarket stuff unless the current stuff you have is damaged.