Car washing tips

[mrazntre]

I just finished washing and waxing (with Meguir's Liquid Wax). I started at about 5:30 and finished at 8:00.

I've been reading up on some tips and I figured I'd throw some down.

Washing:
Use 2 buckets, one with the soap that you dip into and another filled with water to rinse out your sponge between soap dips. Doing this will hopefully keep the accumulated dirt from the sponge after many swipes. I usually dump the rinse water after 2 dunks or so.

Drying:
I just read up on this technique where you use a normal hose with a low current of water and sheet off the accumulated water. Basically, the water that accumulates on the car after the final rinse clumps up and by running the water on the sheetmetal, the excess water will just "sheet" off and leave less excess water. After you've done that, just dab away the remaining water. Most carwash guru's use Microfiber towels, can be found at Autozone.

I also use an electric leaf blower to blow away water in the crevices and cracks. You can also used compressed air or something like that if you have it lying around.

*Don't use the same towels for the body of the car and the wheels!!!!! I've seen a gas station car wash that uses a big brush to scrub off the brake dust from the rims and in a big sweeping motion scrubs the rest of the car. :mad: OUCH! That's not good for your paint.....but it IS an easy way to get deep scratches.


Please add some more helpful hints and tips if you have any. I'm definitely not an expert.

[truMp]

$10.00 at your local car wash.

I think the costs of doing it yourself even out.

[mrazntre]

$10.00 at your local car wash.

I think the costs of doing it yourself even out.

True, but it's really not a good idea if you want to keep your paint from getting really scratched up.

[truMp]

yea, i'd always wash it myself if it was a nice car.

[Beat180]

Washing

Few things about washing, the biggest thing is probably identifying what you are trying to accomplish with the wash. The most common answer is "clean" but clean is a relative term.

*If you are completely making over your car, use dawn soap. It will not harm your car and it will strip old wax. This is a great way to start out your cars make over.

*If your car is incredibly dirty and you are not in the mood to apply any waxes or polishes use a product like Meguiars Gold Class car wash or Meguiars 62. It will remove most/any dirt safely.

*If you car has all ready been waxed and you are simply maintaining that "just waxed" look then avoid using the two washes previously mentioned. Instead go out and buy Meguiars Hi-Tech Car Wash number 00 in the professional series. It will remove dirt and not touch the wax, really a great product.

*To avoid scratching your car during a wash make sure you have a CLEAN (meaning not left outside in pool of dirty wash water) 100% sheep skin wash mitt. Do not use anything other than sheep skin, it costs a little bit more but it is well worth it. This is one of the few things I go to Wal-Mart for.

Drying

People always ask about the best way to dry your car. Most people just use chamois but if you are an obsessed detailer you may not be satisfied with the job they do.

*After you have completely washed the car and rinsed all the suds away mist the car (if your hose has the capability) and then proceed to use a low pressure flow over the roof of the car. The water should "sheet" off and leave the car relatively dry.

*Water will be left behind, so clean up what remains with a micro fiber towel or the Absorber. The Absorber is a "super chamoi" that works pretty well. Just be careful not to get any dirt in it!

*If you are really anal you will go into the garage and pull out your old mans leaf blower and blow out every single nook and cranny on the car. This is what I do, you'd be surprised at how much water gets stuck in those. Especially on the Mustangs honey comb grill and scoops.

*Follow up the leaf blower with a micro fiber towel (can be purchased at Wal-Mart but they are cheap ones, for the highest quality go to http://www.pakshack.com).

Scratch Removal

The first thing you need to do is identify the scratch. If it is a paint scratch and scratched all the way down the primer you are in trouble. If it is just a scratch in the clear it is fixable, but will take some effort and maybe the use of a power tool.

*As much as I love the Meguiars line, Scratch X is a hunk of junk, go buy the #9 in their professional series, it is a great product that can safety be applied by hand.

*If you are really anal like me, you will go to Sears and spend 50 bucks on a halogen lamp and work on the car at night. This allows you to see every little flaw in the paint, thus effectively eliminating them. I warn you now, though, if you try to remove them all at once you will go mad.

*If the scratch is deeper than the clear coat you may need to have a professional do it. This is way out of my league as it may require the use of a rotary buffer and/or a repaint. Best advice to avoid this is to park a safe distance away from the rest of the world and don't make any enemies or crazy girlfriend/boyfriends.

*Keep in mind it is very important that you use the LEAST abrasive product possible to get the job done. Don't use Meguiars #83 without trying the #9 first. The abrasives in such products can damage your paint, and even though it may not show up immediately it will show up later. Be careful and make sure you rub the products in until they are virtually gone.

Clay Bar

A lot of people ask what the purpose of using a clay bar is. Simply enough, it is just to remove any contaminents from the paint. Even washing with the most potent car wash will not get these little contaminents out of your paint. When you wax the car, you are just sealing them in and damaging your paint.

*Clay bar the car after you wash, it is made for surface prep, meaning you are getting the surface ready for polishes, scratch removal and waxes. Think of it as starting with a new coat of paint.

*Some people like to use soap and water for lubricant, others like to use the product the clay bar came with. I personally use Meguiars Overspray Clay with #34 for lubricant. It works very nicely.

*Popular brands of clay are Mothers, Meguiars and Clay Magic. All will work fine.

*Just be sure that you have washed the car before your clay, if you are doing a total make over, this is where the majority of your time will be spent so don't forget it.

*When you wipe off the residue left behind by the clay (use a micro fiber towel) your surface should feel smooth as glass.

*You know that you have gotten the surface ready by when there is very little lubricant on the paint and the clay bar is gliding rather easily across the surface. If you run into rough spots, keep rubbing them with it until smooth.

*Clay bars work great for bug and tar as well, just don't forget to cover up the spot with polish and wax, as clay bars remove wax as well.

Polishing

Most people think that it is the wax that makes your car shine, well it isn't. The wax helps out, but the magic happens with the polishes.

*Zaino is a great polish or glaze if you want to call it that. Anybody considering ordering it should do so without seconding guessing.

*Meguiars #7 is also a great polish; it goes on easily and comes off nicely as well. It is safe to apply by hand or by a dual action polisher.

*When you apply polishes, you want to get a very even layer to achieve a matte and even look. If you are doing it by hand, buy the Meguiars yellow foam pads, and if you are doing it by hand buy a Porter Cable (will discuss PC later).

Waxing

Everybody’s favorite step. Waxing is great because that means after you finish this, all you have to do is maintain your cars new look.

*There are many different waxes out there. In my experience you get what you pay for.

*Products like Turtle Wax and Zymol are not any good, at least the cleaner waxes aren't.

*Meguiars #26 works wonders, it is one of the easiest products to apply and remove. It really works well with the #7 as well. It also beads water like you would not believe.

*If you applied ANY polishes what so ever do not apply ANY cleaner waxes such as Zymol or Meguiars Gold Class. You will remove all the polish and you will want shoot yourself afterwards (trust me).

Maintaining

Maintaining is easy, but it can be tedious. Unless your car is a garage queen, products like the California car duster are useless.

*Buy a bottle of the following, Meguiars Quik Detailer, Meguiars Quik Wax and Meguiars #34 Final Inspection.

*Apply the detailer to areas that just have things like pollen on them and wipe clean with a micro fiber.

*Follow it with the quik wax to restore any shine that you may have lost, this product rocks.

*The #34 is for hardcore dirt and grime, if it gets too much for one spray and wipe to handle, WASH YOUR CAR. You will scratch it otherwise.

*Bird droppings, bugs & tar - I hate all three of these equally. If you get bird droppings on your car, remove it immediately. Spray it with #34 LIBERALLY and let it sit for a while. Then spray it off with the hose, follow up with a wash of the Meguiars 00. Be very careful with bird droppings, they are full of harmful acids and will eat your paint. They can also scratch your paint! For bugs and tar I like to use the Meguiars bug and tar remover wipes. A common misconception (partially their fault for calling them wipes) is that all you have to do is wipe it with the wipe and it will come right off. This is not true, you need to rub it in vigorously and then let it sit. After a minute or so try picking at it with your finger, it should come off. If not get out the quick detailer and try again. That should do it.

Products

"What is the best wax?" and "What is the best method to apply?" are commonly asked. Here I will discuss what products I like for various jobs.

*Washing - Dawn soap for a complete make over, Meguiars Gold Class for heavy dirt and grime, #00 for maintaining.

*Polishing - I prefer Meguiars #7 for my polish, I use #9 before it to remove any swirls and scratches, it works nicely. 3M also has nice products, so does Zaino. I'm not even going to get into exotics.

*Glass - Costco sells a product called Sprayway glass cleaner, it works very nicely even on those windows with spots that won't go away. It only takes about a year for your glass to look like *** so stay on top of it!

*Interior Dash & Trim - I love Meguiars Vinyl & Rubber protectant, spray it on a terry cloth and wipe it on the surface, it leaves it with a brilliant shine and a nice smell. Always vacuum your interior and avoid air fresheners, they are worthless!

*Carpet - Meguiars Heavy Duty Carpet Cleaner works amazing. I had a paint stain on my seats (I print t-shirts on the side, so I work with a lot of inks) and it came right off my seats and carpet.

*Tires - I like to wash my tires with dawn soap on a terry towel and spray them with Meguiars #40 Vinyl and Rubber cleaner and conditioner. I then follow it up with Meguiars Hot Shine tire spray to give it that wet look.

*Wheel Wells - I like Simple Green on the wheel wells, all though a pressure washer is clearly the best way to go about cleaning them! Avoid using too hard of a blast though. Don't want to rip them apart!

*Wheels - Meguiars has a product called Hot Rims Cool Care, it works very nicely. After I spray this on and wash it off (wait about 30 seconds) I like to take dawn soap and a terry towel and really get in there and clean the rest out by hand. Don't ask me about the best way to maintain polished aluminum or chrome, I have no idea sorry!

*Engine - Meguiars Extra is best for the engine. It is a degreaser and will not corrode your metal (Simple Green has a tendency to do this). Simply spray it on a COOL engine and rinse it off. Repeat as necessary, scrub any tough spots with a tooth brush.

*Exterior Trim - Mothers Back-To-Black has served me well, I like to use it on the weather stripping and what not. It is easier to use than Meguiars Trim Detailer and is much more forgiving if you don't remove it all.

*Head Lights & Tail Lights - Meguiars Plastx is a great plastic cleaner designed specifically for things like this. Very easy to use and really does make the plastic clear (only works on smudges and what not on the outside, obviously).

Products to Avoid

*Harms-It-All aka Armor All, this stuff is just full of silicones waiting to shine for a moment and then crack the hell out of your dash a year from now. If you are using it STOP. Stop using it on everything! You will regret it later.

*I have not had good luck with Eagle 1 products, some people have but I do not recommend them. Do not be fooled by the cool packaging or pictures on the cover, your car will not look like that.

*Zymol - The cleaner wax is junk, I don't know about the rest of the series, never tried it, never will.

*Turtle Wax - Has gone down the drain in the last few years, don't bother with them.

Tools

*I love my Porter Cable, I bought it at http://www.properautocare.com, it is listed as "The Ultimate Detailing Machine" and it really is just that. It is the best car care investment I've ever made. If you buy one make sure you get at least two yellow pads, an extra white pad or two and one black/grey pad. Don't get the cheaper one, the velcro plate that comes with the more expensive one is unsurpassed and makes using the product a breeze.

*Tooth brush and soft bristle paint brush are very handy for getting in tight places and getting products like Mothers Back-To-Black in tight places (like the honey comb grill or the scoops on our Mustangs).

*Meguiars Yellow Foam Applicators - For the person who has to do things by hand. These are the best pads, to clean them just wash them in the wash and ring them out and let them sit until dry.

*California Wiper Blade - Some people like this (I once heard someone say it is better than sex) well I think differently. I hate it, if you get a spec of dirt in-between the car and the blade kiss your hard work good bye. Trust me, I own one and hate it.

NOTE: This was written by MichaelB21 from a car related board. Just thought I'd share.

Just my personal preference, if you've got access to Soft 99 products, their clay bar is superior to the Mothers brand and also their premium wax (gold colored container with pick/brush/wax can opener tool on top) is the best I've ever used. I've used the entire Meguiars line, but found that the waxes they have aren't as durable, as smooth in application, nor do they have the depth of the Premium wax by Soft 99. Doesn't come cheap at $25 a can, but lasts quite a while and goes on very very smoothly.

[nonamerasian]

*If you are completely making over your car, use dawn soap. It will not harm your car and it will strip old wax. This is a great way to start out your cars make over.

I recently started a debate with this one.

I was going to wash my car with dish soap and one group said to go ahead and it won't do any harm and the next said no because it damages the paint or something.

The yes group have done it and their cars look fine (to me).

A person from the no group showed me one of those auto tips fliers that says don't do it.

Is it really okay or not?
:confused:

[Arex]

I just started using Zaino's products to wash & protect my paint (www.zainostore.com). It seems to leave the paint super shiny and smooth. But then again, anytime you spend three plus hours washing and applying multiple coats of polish/sealant you're going see a shine, whether it's really there or not.=) Stuff is kinda pricey though.

Nonamerasian: Washing your car with dish soap is okay if you're planning on waxing it afterwards since it strips away any wax. In fact, Zaino recommends you use Dawn to wash your car before using their products for the first time. But if you don't wax it up afterwards, then your paint is essentially unprotected.

RX

[mrazntre]

I just started using Zaino's products to wash & protect my paint (www.zainostore.com). It seems to leave the paint super shiny and smooth. But then again, anytime you spend three plus hours washing and applying multiple coats of polish/sealant you're going see a shine, whether it's really there or not.=) Stuff is kinda pricey though.

Nonamerasian: Washing your car with dish soap is okay if you're planning on waxing it afterwards since it strips away any wax. In fact, Zaino recommends you use Dawn to wash your car before using their products for the first time. But if you don't wax it up afterwards, then your paint is essentially unprotected.

RX

actually, that's true for ANY car wash soap.

btw, i think it's time for me to claybar my ride. that's gonna be a bitch.

[Arex]

^--- Not necessarily. A lot of 'em at least claim to not strip wax. See, e.g., Meguiar's Soft Wash Gel or Meguar's Gold Class Car Wash. It may just be marketing, but for everyday car washes that aren't followed by a polish/waxing, I'd definitely choose a car wash over a dish soap that's specially formulated to break down grease.

RX

[mrazntre]

I've used both Meguiar's products and from the feel of the surface of my paint, the wax is gone. I use the Meguiar's liquid wax and you can positively tell whether or not the wax product is still on the car. I believe it's all marketing.

[Arex]

I dunno 'bout that. Obviously a freshly waxed car is going to feel different than a car that has just been washed with either car wash or dish soap. I'm sure anytime you wash your car you're stripping away some amount of the wax. It's just a matter of how much. If you wash your car with Dawn, the water will not bead suggesting no protection at all. Compare that to if you wash your car with car wash (after having previously waxed it), and you'll still get some beading depending on how long it's been since you waxed. At least, I did when I washed and re-waxed my car last week.

RX

[mrazntre]

I dunno if beading is so desireable.

But there's always some form of beading everytime i've washed a car at different times of washing, whether it be months after a wax, after a full car wash without wax or any other combination. Have you claybared in between any of those washes?

[Arex]

Beading water is good if only because it makes drying the car quicker.

I only clay barred a few areas on my car (e.g., the top surface of my rear bumper which collects a lot of sediment, just like on the Prelude) right before I waxed the car for the first time a few months back. The paint is still essentially new so it'll probably be a while before I do a comprehensive claying. Good luck on that project.

RX

[mrazntre]

for the most part i've been following the water sheeting technique so i'm not too happy when i get water beading.

wanna come over and help me wit the claybar?

[Arex]

Well, I think the beading refers to the fact that the water does not want to stick to the car. I use the sheeting method too, but you will invariably leave some amount of water beads on the car. Try washing your car with Dawn and water just sticks to the paint (i.e., no beading, not sheeting). That's why I would avoid dish soap.

What's my incentive for helping you out with your car?

[mrazntre]

Well, I think the beading refers to the fact that the water does not want to stick to the car. I use the sheeting method too, but you will invariably leave some amount of water beads on the car. Try washing your car with Dawn and water just sticks to the paint (i.e., no beading, not sheeting). That's why I would avoid dish soap.

What's my incentive for helping you out with your car?

you didn't come out to my bday party so basically you'd be making up what you didn't do.

[Arex]

Ouch! A little advanced notice would be nice next time.=P Happy belated birthday. How was the gathering, anyway?

So when do you want to do this car detailing thing? Sneaky bastard.

RX

[mrazntre]

hehehe...

i'm not sure yet. i gotta get some people together. the wrx guys wanna do a day long detailing thing with a mini bbq and beer. i'm going to also try to get a paintless door ding removal guy too.

[Arex]

hehehe...

i'm not sure yet. i gotta get some people together. the wrx guys wanna do a day long detailing thing with a mini bbq and beer. i'm going to also try to get a paintless door ding removal guy too.If there's beer & BBQ involved then I'm there. Just give me adequate notice.

I'd actually like to see if those paintless ding removal guys can pop out a dent on my fender/wheel well lip (not on the edge, but on the crease next to the edge).

[mrazntre]

ok, no prob.

i've seen a shopping cart dent pulled off the edge of a fender once. it was on the edge and crease. the clear coat looked really distressed, to the point of turning white, but the guy was able to straighten it out within 85-90% without cracking the paint. I'm sure a good detailer could have taken care of the rest.