PDA

View Full Version : So you want to be a tuner, Part I


537
06-10-2004, 11:13 AM
Over the next couple weeks, I have decided to write some articles in regards to getting in touch with your vehicle. Intimately getting to know your car and its strengths and weaknesses will undoubtedly make you a better driver, both defensively and on the track. Once you get to know your car's limits, you might then even wish to improve upon them and possibly extend said limitations. The advice being listed below will be universal for most automobiles. Motorcycles will not be included in this series as of yet.

Part I. Introduction -- Getting to know your vehicle
Part II. Stage I modifcations -- Improving Handling & Brakes & Vision
Part III. Stage II modifications -- Improving Power Characteristics
Part IV. Stage III modifications -- Further Improving Handling, Brakes, and Power Characteristics

Disclaimer: In no way, shape, or form am I responsible for anything happening to you while either reading the articles or following advice. If you remember only one thing from reading my posts, it should be that it's all your fault and nobody else's.

We'll start with the basics. Provide any feedback you wish.

Part I. Introduction -- Getting to know your vehicle

a. Stopping Power.

I don't care what anybody says. The first thing you should be looking at is how well your car stops, how in tune you are with your brake pedal, and how your vehicle behaves under emergency braking. You should be aware if your vehicle is equipped with anti-lock brakes, or some sort of electronic brake distribution option. How does the car feel when stopping in traffic? Does the nose dive during gradual braking? Does it pull to one side?

If your vehicle is equipped with an electronic brake distribution option or anti-lock system, you should get to the point where you can stop the car as quickly as you can without engaging them. The rule of thumb is, if your anti-lock brakes are activated, you're beyond the point of efficient braking and the vehicle is compensating for your braking error. Without the anti-lock option, you would be locking your tires and be in a potentially uncontrollable skid.

With that being said, find a big empty parking lot and conduct the following exercises.

15mph-full stop
30mph-full stop
60mph-full stop

With each attempt, remember to apply firm yet gradual pressure on your brake pedal. Do not slam on the brakes, ever. Find the rate of speed at which you can apply full pressure on the pedal without locking your tires (most likely, you will only be applying full brake pedal pressure on the 30mph and 60mph stops). Throughout the exercise, you should never hear your tires at a full screech. Ideally, while applying firm gradual pressure to the brake pedal, you will want to hear your tires just under the point of losing adhesion to the road, and the telltale sign of this will be hearing miniscule screeches here and there during the stop. If you feel your brake pedal modulating on its own, your anti-lock brakes have activated and you should repeat the test.

b. Vision

Sit in the driver's seat, close enough to the pedals so that when you are depressing them fully your knees are slightly bent. Hopefully this puts you in prime position to utilize the steering wheel and gear lever/instrumentation. That is, of course, unless you drive a badly designed vehicle. Ideally, your hands should be on the 9 o' clock and 3 o'clock points on the steering wheel. When in this position, you are the least susceptible to having cornering forces and inertial momentum affect your steering/pedal input.

Now look out your windows and at your mirrors. Are you able to minimize your blind spots? Try to determine exactly where your blind spots are and learn to give a quick glance at it with a turn of your head. This is invaluable and should come as second nature. It takes a fraction of a second that can save your life.

c. Handling

While in the empty parking lot, pay special attention to how your car handles under differing turns.

Simulate a freeway interchange, which closely resembles a fixed rate turn. How much does your vehicle tilt to the outside? Does your vehicle have the tendency to push towards the outside of the turn (understeer)? Does it turn too easily, forcing you to baby the accelerator (oversteer)? Does the car feel composed and steer like it's on rails (neutral)? Take note of your vehicle's basic handling characteristics, as in following articles will try to pinpoint areas which can be improved for each category listed above. For reference, an ideal handling vehicle will be a neutrally steering one.

While driving in a straight line, without using the brake pedal, try to make a quick left, quick right motion to simulate a quick lane change. Take special notice to not screech your tires, and to make the 'lane change' as quick as possible.

Then try it in conjunction with emergency braking. Keep in mind, your front tires only have a set amount of traction and you will need to compromise between the two functions. Same rules apply; take notice to not screech your tires and make the 'quick lane change + stop' as quick as possible.

d. Acceleration

At some point in time, you will need to take note of how quickly your car accelerates and how well it maintains its composure while doing so. Front wheel drive vehicles tend to exhibit torque-steer the quicker they accelerate. Remedies will be covered in following articles.

Accelerate in the empty parking lot from 0-30mph and 0-60mph. Pay attention to your vehicles composure, and once again your tires should never be fully screeching. Ideally, if your vehicle has adequate power, you will hear miniscule screeches here and there.



With the completion of these exercises, you should be more aware of how well your vehicle performs under its limitations, and you should have a firmer grasp of what those limitations are. Never exceed these limitations, as you will be at a loss of control of the vehicle, and a danger to yourself, your passengers and the people on the road near you.

The next article will be covering how to extend some of these limitations safely and intelligently.

deez nuts
06-10-2004, 11:26 AM
good stuff

hooligan
06-10-2004, 11:26 AM
les, can you pimp my ride?

537
06-10-2004, 11:27 AM
les, can you pimp my ride?


Do you have a ride to be pimped?

hooligan
06-10-2004, 11:29 AM
Do you have a ride to be pimped?
1996 toyota previa

537
06-10-2004, 11:34 AM
good stuff


Thanks! But remember, if anybody has any feedback and/or input, please post!

deez nuts
06-10-2004, 02:15 PM
Thanks! But remember, if anybody has any feedback and/or input, please post!


what about different types of tires?

don't they play a factor also i.e. acceleration, braking and handling?

537
06-10-2004, 03:15 PM
what about different types of tires?

don't they play a factor also i.e. acceleration, braking and handling?


Definitely, and they will be included in future articles. By far, the number of OEM vehicles out there outnumber the modified ones and in that respect I wanted to create a baseline so that people may then be more inclined to get familiar with their cars.

I understand not everybody wants to do any sort of modifications, but everybody should know their own car's limitations.

deez nuts
06-10-2004, 04:41 PM
everybody should know their own car's limitations.


definitely

AltimaGTR
06-11-2004, 03:01 AM
What's wrong with just watching the Fast and the Furious? Those civics are mad fast, y0!

mrazntre
06-13-2004, 02:15 AM
I would add, after doing the aforementioned exercises:

Simulate emergency braking, straight forward.
Simulate emergency braking, slight right turn.
Simulate emergency braking, slight left turn.
*this means - make those tires lose traction!*
Simulate braking into a "corner" that you took to fast (determine when you'll lose traction and spin).
Learn how to reverse. People think driving in reverse is basic, but some people still can't do it.

Let's also not forget brake fade:

Essentially, after numerous hard stops and/or excessive braking, your brake distance will be impaired due to the brake pad heating up AND brake fluid heating up and boiling (which causes brake line flex and a mushy brake pedal). Brake fade is no good because braking will become less efficient.

I suppose all of that will be addressed in the subsequent article installment. I don't have much to say. Sorry if this post seems jagged, cluttered, hard to understand and crappy.

lethal
06-13-2004, 11:30 AM
Good write-up.

Appreciate it.